Ocean Surface Waves Their Physics and Prediction

1. Introduction. 1.1. Waves in the ocean and their significance. 1.2. Basic assumptions on seawater and wave motion. 1.3. Methods of description of random waves -- 2. Interaction of wind and ocean waves. 2.1. Introduction. 2.2. Airflow over sea surface. 2.3. Similarity laws for wind-induced waves. 2.4. Wave energy balance in spectral form. 2.5. Generation of waves by wind -- 3. Spectral properties of ocean waves. 3.1. Introduction. 3.2. Frequency spectra of ocean waves. 3.3. Dispersion relation for ocean waves. 3.4. Directional spectral functions -- 4. Statistical properties of ocean waves. 4.1. Introduction. 4.2. Surface displacement. 4.3. Surface slopes. 4.4. Wave height. 4.5. Wave period. 4.6. Wave orbital velocities and pressure. 4.7. Wave group statistics. 4.8. Surface area of an ocean waves -- 5. Properties of breaking waves. 5.1. Introduction. 5.2. Wave breaking in deep water. 5.3. Wave breaking in shallow water -- 6. Prediction of waves in deep water. 6.1. Introduction. 6.2. Basic wave processes in deep water. 6.3. Wave prediction models -- 7. Prediction of waves in shallow water. 7.1. Introduction. 7.2. Basic wave processes in shallow water. 7.3. Wave prediction models -- 8. Freak waves. 8.1. Introduction. 8.2. Freak wave oboccurrence of freak waves. 8.4. Freak wave generation -- 9. Tsunami. 9.1. Introduction. 9.2. Tsunami generation due to earthquake. 9.3. Tsunami due to landslides. 9.4. Tsunami due to meteorites impact -- 10. Waves at islands and coral reefs. 10.1. Introduction. 10.2. Maximum wave height on shoal flat. 10.3. Sheltering of surface waves by islands. 10.4. Scattering of waves by a group of islands. 10.5. Prediction of waves on island archipelagoes. 10.6. Interaction of waves with coral reef bottoms -- 11. Waves in mangrove forests. 11.1. Introduction. 11.2. Waves in mangrove forest of constant water depth. 11.3. Waves in mangrove forest of changing water depth -- 12. Wave-induced pressure and flow in a porous bottom. 12.1. Introduction. 12.2. Wave-induced pore pressure in sea bottom. 12.3. Pore pressure in sea bottom due to wave set-up. 12.4. Experimental data on pore pressure. 12.5. Spectral properties of wave-induced pore pressure. 12.6. Ciculation in permeable rippled bed -- 13. Wave observations and long-term statistics. 13.1. Introduction. 13.2. Wave observations. 13.3. Wave geography. 13.4. Long-term statistics of sea severity -- 14. Wave measurement techniques. 14.1. Introduction. 14.2. A single point wave data. 14.3. Remote sensing techniques -- 15. Data processing and simulation techniques. 15.1. Introduction. 15.2. Data processing methods. 15.3. Numerical simulation techniques